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Immersion dans un atelier tailleur

Chères vous,

Je viens vers vous pour vous conter, comme promis, la suite des aventures d’une apprentie couturière.

Je voudrais partager plus régulièrement avec vous mais le temps file aussi vite qu’un tissu sous le pied presseur et je n’écris pas autant d’article que je le souhaiterais . Mais,  je viens vite rattraper mon retard pour partager avec vous ma première immersion professionnelle dans le monde de la couture : un stage de 3 semaines dans un atelier tailleur.

Votre question que j’entends d’ici : qu’est ce que c’est un atelier tailleur ?

La réponse :

Le tailleur (de vêtements -et non de pierres, soyons bien clair entre nous – oh que la couture me rend drôle … ou pas.) est un artisan qui fait des vêtements sur mesure, plus particulièrement dans la catégorie des vêtements masculins (costumes composés d’un veston, d’un pantalon et éventuellement d’un gilet (dans ce cas, on parle de complet), smoking, manteaux, etc. .

J’ai réalisé ce stage dans l’atelier tailleur Camps de Luca  : je vous invite à découvrir leur site ici. Une belle vidéo d’introduction permet de se glisser dans les coulisses de l’atelier et de se rendre compte du travail du métier de tailleur sur mesure.

La particularité du tailleur artisanal, comme Camps de Luca,  est que le vêtement est entièrement conçu à la main, du patronage, à la découpe et à la conception. La machine à coudre est très peu utilisée. Les points à la main permettent d’apprivoiser au mieux la matière et d’assurer le tombé parfait pour le client.

J’ai ainsi découvert le travail de la couture à la main pendant 3 semaines.

Avant ce stage, pour être honnête avec vous, je fuyais autant que je pouvais la couture à la main car, je l’assume, il peut s’avérer que (parfois) je sois de nature plutôt feignante… Et pour une feignante, la couture à la main parait un louuuurd calvaire. La punition ! Depuis ce stage, j’ai appris à manier une aiguille et son dé, j’ai appris à manier le tissu sous les doigts et j’ai tout simplement appris à apprécier ce travail manuel de précision et de patience.

Mais quelles coutures à la main réalisent un tailleur ?

Le tailleur utilise plusieurs points. Ils sont rassemblés sur ce tapis de points de tailleur :

 

tapis points de tailleur

Source de la photo : stiff-collar.com (le blog de Julien Scavini, le célèbre tailleur de “Cousu main” sur M6)

Point N°1 : le point de surfil (et oui, le tailleur surfile le vêtement à la main et non avec la surjeteuse ou le point zigzag de la machine à coudre familiale.). Le surfil permet, comme expliqué dans l’article précédent d’éviter que les bords du tissu s’effilochent. Le fait de réaliser le surfil à la main permet, notamment, de ne pas déformer le tissu en effectuant des points trop serrés et de surfiler dans le sens de l’effilochage pour assurer le meilleur maintien possible du bord du tissu.  J’ai donc appris à surfiler du beau tissu hollandais. Un plaisir sous les doigts !

Point N°2 : le point arrière : il est discret sur l’endroit du tissu mais permet de faire une couture solide et de finir joliment un rabattement de veste sur l’endroit par exemple.

Point N°3 : le point perdu : comme son nom l’indique, le but est qu’il se fasse oublier (qu’il soit invisible). Il permet de maintenir joliment des poches passepoilées sur l’endroit sans que cela ne se voit ! La magie de la couture (à la main).

Point N° 4 : le point de chausson essentiellement utilisé pour les bas de vêtements (ourlets)

point N°5 : point de bati : il permet de maintenir temporairement des pièces ensemble le temps de la conception du vêtement. Avant un essayage par exemple. Le point de bati est ensuite enlever une fois la couture définitive réalisée.

Point N°6 et point N°7 : le point de chevron permet de donner un tombé / une forme  à une pièce de tissu. En tailleur, le tissu est souvent entoilé (une toile est rajoutée sur l’envers du vêtement), ce qui permet de donner structure et tenue au tissu. Ce point de chevron, que j’ai appris à réaliser sur un col, permet de “casser” le tissu et la toile et de former le tombé arrondi du col. Ce point est visible sur l’envers mais doit être invisible sur l’endroit.

Pour réaliser ce col, j’ai mis un petit temps de 4 heures. Le temps normal pour un tailleur pour réaliser ces points de chevron sur le col est d’une demie heure… Gloups ! Du chemin encore à parcourir…

J’ai également appris pendant ce stage à réaliser le point de crochet (ou point de bouclette) : ce point est un point de bati assez lâche qui permet de faire des repérages de placement de couture sur plusieurs épaisseurs de tissu en même temps. Une fois le point réalisé, on écarte les pièces et on coupe entre les fils. Et hop, chaque pièce de tissu a son repérage grâce à des petits fils.

Source : http://www.barthfashion.org/machinecoudre/pointfilfloche.htm

Un article de blog qui explique bien le principe du point de crochet pour celles/ceux que ça intéresse par ici

Dans ce stage, j’ai donc appris la précision, la minutie, la patience.

J’ai été entouré de personnes passionnées par leur métier et par l’envie de transmettre (une trentaine de personne de 20 à 60 ans compose l’atelier).

Les journées sont rythmées par le son de la radio qui chantonne, le bruit de la craie que l’on taille, du ciseau qui coupe le tissu, dans une chorégraphie de mains qui semblent danser entre aiguilles et tissus. Le vêtement étape après étape passe de mains en mains, chaque personne a sa note à donner pour faire d’une pièce de tissu un vêtement sur mesure.

Une vie entière d’Homme ne serait pas suffisante pour maîtriser tout l’art du tailleur artisanal sur-mesure : du patronage, au tombé parfait du col, de la manche au rabat de la veste. C’est ainsi que chaque personne de l’atelier est le complément de l’autre apportant son talent et son savoir faire à une partie du costume. C’est un ballet à plusieurs mains. Sans etre attitrés a une seule tâche, les tailleurs ont malgré tout leur spécialité guidée par leur dextérité ou expérience dans certains domaines : la boutonnière, la manche, le pantalon…

Admirative de ces artisans qui donnent de leur talent et de leur passion pour réaliser  des costumes qui ne sont plus “que” des costumes mais deviennent, au regard du travail effectué, du temps passé et de la précision donnée, des oeuvres d’art. Chapeau l’artiste !

J’ai ainsi découvert un univers qui m’était totalement inconnu il y a quelques semaines encore et j’en reste encore toute émerveillée. Ce premier stage m’a permis, en outre, de progresser en peu de temps sur le maniement de la couture à la main, alors vivement les prochains stages (5 semaines et 4 semaines en février et en avril en cours de recherche) pour continuer à s’imprégner de ce travail artisanal, de ces rencontres passionnantes, de ces moments où l’on se sent comme une toute petite fille devant des géants de talents et de passions !

A très vite (promis) pour la suite des aventures du CAP couture.

 

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